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Copy 


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OFFICE OF INDIAN AFFAIRS 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS 

SOME THINGS THAT EVERY BOY SHOULD KNOW HOW TO DO 
AND HENCE SHOULD LEARN TO DO IN SCHOOL 










WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 
1911 /: 



1A .6 . OFFICE OF INDIAN AFFAIRS 
it 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS 

SOME THINGS THAT EVERY BOY SHOULD KNOW HOW TO DO 
AND HENCE SHOULD LEARN TO DO IN SCHOOL 




WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 
1911 



c 



<0 ^ 



This publication is distributed free only to the officers of 
the United States Indian Service. Persons desiring copies 
for their personal use may obtain them from the Superin- 
tendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Wash- 
ington, D. C, for 15 cents. 

2 



CONTENTS. 



/ ^ RECEIVED *' t \ 

U NOV »7 m +) 



Page. 

Preface 5 

Introduction 7 

Lists of tools 9 

Cost of equipment for wood-working classes 10 

Split-log drag 11 

How to use a drag 11 

Setting posts 12 

Building fence 12 

Planting trees 12 

Oiling and mending harness , 13 

Caring for farm and other tools 13 

Pruning 13 

Protecting trees 14 

Putting handles in tools 14 

Nailing on horseshoes 14 

Sharpening plows 15 

Mixing mortar 15 

Laying cement walks 15 

Laying stone wall 17 

Hanging doors 17 

Setting locks 18 

Painting and glazing 18 

Building roads 19 

Glueing 20 

Soldering 20 

Harnessing, hitching, and unhitching horses 21 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Page. 

Plate I. Cheap workbench 48 

II. Manual training workbench 48 

III. Details of manual training workbench 48 

IV. Domestic science cook table 48 

V. Ironing board to be used with domestic science cook table 48 

Fig. *1. Bread board 22 

2. Stall, feed box, and manger 23 

3. Hen's nest 24 

4. Henroost 25 

5. Gate 26 

6. Chicken coop 27 

7. Milk stool 28 

3 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Page. 

Fig. 8. Evener 28 

9. Feed trough 29 

10. Water trough 30 

11. Wall shelf 31 

12. Hanging shelf 32 

13. Footstool 33 

14. Flour box 34 

15. Bench 35 

16. Knife box 36 

17. Table 37 

18. Cupboard 38 

19. Towel roller 39 

20. Bedstead 40 

21. Window screen 41 

22. Door screen 42 

23. Bookcase 43 

24. Tool chest 44 

25. Clothes box 45 

26. Split-log drag 46 

27. Hayrack ... 47 

28. Details of a cheap workbench 48 



PREFACE. 



^ RECEIVED C\ 

[it NOV ^7 19n ^ 




This publication has been compiled from the results of practical 
experience in the work of instruction in the Indian schools. It is 
believed that it is a comprehensive and practical manual that will 
be of material assistance to the teacher, but every teacher is urged 
to forward suggestions in order that the manual may be improved 
when a second edition is issued. 

One word of caution is urged as to the use of this publication. The 
teachers should look at it in the light of suggestions rather than as 
dogma from which they should never deviate, and I should not want 
any teachers to feel that they could not take up any phases of the 
subject or any methods of instruction which are not contained in 
this publication. Conditions vary greatly in different localities and 
in the same locality at different times, and the teacher must ever 
be alert to meet these changes. Perhaps this word of caution is 
unnecessary, but the experience of many school systems goes to 
show that it can not be too strongly emphasized. 

R. G. Valentine, Commissioner. 



SOME THINGS THAT EVERY BOY SHOULD KNOW HOW TO DO. 



INTRODUCTION. 

Nearly every Indian boy when at home lives in the country rather 
than in town, and therefore is more or less closely in touch with farm 
life. The majority of these boys have their own land, and this 
majority should ultimately make their living from this land. To do 
that requires that they live the lives of farmers. There are many 
simple processes which the white boy who is brought up on a farm 
learns incidentally at home that the Indian boy has no opportunity 
to learn there, but which he must know how to do if he is to make a 
real success of his farming. 

The boy who devotes himself entirely to a trade may become pro- 
ficient in that trade, and yet may lack in the general knowledge of 
doing these common things that are so necessary to the farm and 
home. 

A suggestive list is given containing a number of common articles 
that have to be made for every home and on every farm, together 
with a number of processes with which every boy should be familiar. 
There are localities to which not all of these suggestions may apply, 
and it will be desirable to add to tins list some things that are appli- 
cable only to certain local requirements. It is not the purpose of the 
bulletin to furnish any complete list or complete course, but merely 
to give suggestions as to what may be done, with the expectation 
that the five instructor will add to the lists as Iris experience may show 
him is advisable. 

The cuts contained in the bulletin will show how the more dillicult 
articles are made and the description of the processes will be sufficient 
to give any instructor a good idea of what is to be done if he is not 
already informed on the subject. 

The records should be kept on cards, as shown on the sample, and 
due credit should be given for everything that is done when the pupil 
has acquired the ability to do the thing independently. These 
records should show exactly what the pupil has done, not only in the 
way of completing the work as outlined but also in connection with 
his work in a regular trade, if he is taking such a course. The card 
should be filed in the pupil's individual folder with all other perma- 
nent records. 

The earnest cooperation of all employees is requested in carrying 
out and adding to the plan as outlined. 



8 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



Name 

Date of entry. 



Sample record card {face.) 

Age 

Term 



Tribe 

School grade . 



Article. 


Date. 


Process. 


Date. 


Remarks. 




1907. 




1907. 




1 


Sept. 25 


1 


Oct. 6 




7 


Oct. 3 


2 


Nov. 13 




10 


Oct. 15 


9 


Nov. 17 




2 


Nov. 20 


4 


Dec. 15 




11 


Nov. 20 


5 


Dec. 15 




12 


Nov. 20 


6 


Dec. 15 




3 


Dec. 10 




1908. 






1908. 


3 


Apr. 17 




23 


Jan. 5 


17 


June 12 




13 


Feb. 2 


11 


Oct. 2 




4 


Mar. 30 


10 


Dec. 15 




18 


June 15 








17 


Sept. 30 




1909. 




27 


Oct. 25 


21 


Feb. 20 




31 


Nov. 5 


12 


May 13 




14 


Nov. 30 


16 


June 11 




20 


Dec. 20 


,23 
13 


June 15 
Oct. 18 






1909. 


19 


Nov. 3 




5 


Jan. 30 


20 


Nov. 3 




6 


Feb. 25 








24 


Mar. 29 




1910. 




9 


Apr. 19 


18 


Jan. 7 




8 


May 27 


8 


Mar. 5 




15 


Oct. 3 


14 


May 13 




26 


Nov. 20 


15 
22 


May 31 
June 5 






1910. 


7 


June 15 




19 


Jan. 5 








22 


Mar. 2 








33 


Apr. 17 








34 


June 15 









Sample record card {reverse.) 

This card is to be used in recording the work done by each boy during his attend- 
ance in school. All of the articles mentioned may not be applicable to each individ- 
ual and it may be desirable to teach other processes and the making of other articles 
in different localities, but whenever anything is made that is not in the list, or when 
anything practicable is taught that is not found there, these should be inserted with 
appropriate number and the proper credit given. 

ARTICLES TO BE MADE. 



1. Bread board. 


16. 


Knife box. 


2. Stall, feed box and manger. 


17. 


Table. 


3. Hen's nest. 


18. 


Cupboard. 


4. Hen roost. 


19. 


Towel roller. 


5. Gate. 


20. 


Bedstead. 


6. Chicken coop. 


21. 


Window screen. 


7. Milk stool. 


22. 


Door screen. 


8. Evener. 


23. 


Bookcase. 


9. Trough, feed. 


24. 


Chest. 


10. Trough, water. 


25. 


Clothes box. 


11. Shelf, wall. 


26. 


Split-log drag. 


12. Shelf, hanging. 


27. 


Hay rack. 


13. Footstool. 


28. 


Cheap workbench. 


14. Flour box. 


29. 


Manual training workbench 


15. Bench. 







FAEM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



9 



PROCESSES TO BE LEARNED. 



1. Setting posts. 

2. Building fence. 

3. Planting trees. 

4. Oiling harness. 

5. Mending harness. 

6. Mending with rivets. 

7. Caring for farm and other tools. 

8. Pruning trees. 

9. Protecting trees. 

10. Putting handles in tools. 

11. Nailing on horseshoes. 

12. Sharpening plows. 



13. Mixing mortar. 

14. Laying cement walk. 

15. Laying stone wall. 

16. Hanging doors. 

17. Setting locks. 

18. Mixing paint and glazing. 

19. Building roads. 

20. Putting culverts in roads. 

21. Gluing. 

22. Soldering. 

23. Harnessing, hitching, and unhitching 

horses. 



LISTS OF TOOLS. 



WOODWORKING TOOLS. 



Two-foot rule. 




Auger bits. 


Carpenter's steel square. 




Brace. 


Try-square. 




Spokeshave. 


T-bevel. 




Screw-driver. 


Dividers. 




Gimlet bits. 


Claw hammer. 




Countersink. 


Plane. 




Oilstone. 


Marking gauge. 




Oil can. 


Ripsaw. 




Vise. 


Crosscut saw. 




Bench stop. 


Chisel. 




Bench hook. 


Drawknife. 




Miter box. 


Mallet. 




Carpenter's horse. 


Mortise gauge. 




Gluepot. 




mason's tools. 


Crowbar. 




Pitching chisel. 


Edger. 




Stone ax. 


Groover. 




Trowel, mason's. 


Mallet. 




Trowel, plastering. 


Mason's brush. 




Trowel, pointing. 


Point. 




Ladder (to be made by students) 




painter's tools. 


Oval brush, No. 8. 




Glass cutter. 


Varnish brush, 2-inch. 




Putty knife. 


Varnish brush, 3-inch. 




Sash tool, No. 2. 



Wall brush, No. 6. 



BLACKSMITH S TOOLS. 



Shoeing hammer. 
Pincers. 
Trimming knife. 

64633°— 11- 



Ball peen hammer. 
Cross peen hammer. 
Horse rasp. 



10 FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 

COST OF EQUIPMENT FOR WOODWORKING CLASSES. 

Cost of individual equipment. 

1 work bench, as per accompanying drawings $32. 95 

1 vise, rapid action, W. C. Toles & Co., Chicago (or equal), No. 55 7. 50 

1 plane, jack, Stanley (or equal), Bedrock, No. 604 2. 00 

1 plane, block, Stanley, Knucklejoint, No. 18 .85 

1 spoke shave, double cutter, 1^ inch, hollow and straight, No. 60 .50 

1 draw knife, White's (or equal), No. 31, 8 inch 1. 00 

1 chisel, socket firmer, Buck Bros, (or equal), No. 35, I inch .40 

1 chisel, socket firmer, Buck Bros, (or equal), No. 35, ^ inch .45 

1 chisel, socket firmer, Buck Bros, (or equal), No. 35, 1£ inch .65 

1 gouge, socket firmer, Buck Bros, (or equal), No. 42, outside bevel, regular 

sweep .55 

1 bit auger, Genuine Russell Jennings (or equal), double spur, ^ inch .30 

1 bit auger, Genuine Russell Jennings (or equal), double spur, ^ inch .45 

1 bit drill, twist, Syracuse (or equal), -J inch .12 

1 brace, Stanley (or equal), 10-inch sweep, ratchet, Sampson jaw 1. 75 

1 screw driver, Champion (or equal), 8 inch .40 

1 square, carpenter's, polished steel, No. 100 1. 50 

1 square, try, rosewood stock, brass-faced, steel blade, 8 inch .40 

1 sliding T-bevel, rosewood stock, brass-faced, 10 inch .45 

1 gauge, marking, boxwood, brass thumbscrew, shoe, and face, No. 165 .45 

1 rule, Stanley (or equal), boxwood, double brass bound, 1 inch wide, 4 fold . . 35 

1 scraper, cabinet, steel, 3 by 5 inch .14 

1 pair dividers, wing, 10 inch .30 

1 hand screw, beechwood, 12 inch — If by If inch .60 

1 saw, hand, rip, H. Disston & Sons (or equal), No. 12, 7 points, 26 inch 2. 25 

1 saw, hand, crosscut, H. Disston & Sons (or equal), No. 12, 10 points, 24 inch . 2. 00 

1 saw back, H. Disston & Sons (or equal), No. 12, 14 points 1. 25 

1 hammer, nail, Hammond's (or equal), adz eye, bell pole, No. 11^ .70 

1 mallet, round, hickory, No. 4 .15 

1 file, cabinet, open cut, £ round, 10 inch .30 

1 duster, bench, 10-inch block .60 

Total 61. 31 

Cost of class tools for advanced work. 

1 plane, smooth, Stanley (or equal), Bedrock, No. 604, 9 inch $2. 00 

1 plane, jointer, Stanley (or equal), Bedrock, No. 607, 22 inch 2. 60 

1 plane, rabbet and fillister, Stanley (or equal), No. 78 1. 10 

1 plane, plow, Stanley (or equal), Universal, No. 55 12. 00 

1 scraper, veneer, Stanley (or equal), Adjustable, 3-inch cutter, No. 12 1. 90 

1 ax, hand, 4-inch cut .90 

1 set chisels, £ inch to 2 inch, inclusive, 12 chisels, Buck Bros, (or equal), 

socket firmer, No. 35, leather tip handles 5. 90 

1 stone, oil, 1 by 2 by 8 inch, Arkansas unmounted (or equal) 1. 00 

1 stone, oil, 6-inch slip .30 

1 set bits, auger, Genuine Russell Jennings (or equal), -f s inch to |$ inch, 

inclusive, 13 bits, double spur 4. 75 

1 bit, expansive, Steers (or equal), No. 1, 2 cutters, $ to 3 inch 1. 75 

2 countersinks, rose pattern, for wood, at 14 cents each .28 

2 nail sets, Starretts (or equal), knurled, medium, at 12 cents each .24 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 11 

2 screw driver bits for brace. Tound blade, at 15 cents each $0. 30 

1 gauge, mortise, rosewood, plated head, improved screw slide .65 

1 can, oil, straight spout, copperized steel, 1 pint .25 

1 burnisher, apple handle, 4-inch blade .45 

1 saw. frame, turning, 18 inch 1 . 00 

1 saw, compass, H. Disston & Sons (or equal), 16 inch .45 

1 saw set, Tainter's (or equal), positive .75 

1 saw clamp, japanned, 9-inch jaws, No. 3 .60 

1 glue pot, double, enameled inside, 4 pint 1. 40 

lfile, mill, 10 inch 25 

6 files, saw, slim taper, 4^ inch, at 12£ cents each .75 

Total 41.75 

Total cost 102. 86 

SPLIT-LOG DRAG. 

(See fig. 26.) 

Materials. — A dry log, 7 or 8 feet long and 10 or 12 inches in diame- 
ter; 3 sticks, 3 feet long and 3 inches in diameter; a piece of 2 by 4, 

3 feet long; a light chain; 3 boards, 8 feet long, 8 inches wide. 
Directions. — Split the log carefully down the middle. If one side 

should be better than the other, use the better side for* the front. 

Bore a 2-inch hole in the front log, 4 inches from the end that 
will follow the middle of the road; another hole 22 inches from the 
opposite end of the log, and one halfway between these two. 

In the back log bore a 2-inch hole 20 inches from the end of the 
log that is to be in the middle of the road; another 6 inches from the 
opposite end, and a third midway between these, being very careful 
that all holes are bored plumb. 

The logs are to be held apart by stakes tapered at both ends and 
driven firmly into the holes and held there by wedges. The logs 
should be about 30 inches apart. 

Set the 2 by 4 for a brace at the ditch end of the drag, from the 
cross stake in the back log to the end of the front log, about an inch 
from the bottom. 

A strip of iron 3 J feet long, 4 inches wide, and \ inch thick may 
be used as a blade and bolted to the ditch end of the front log, using 
bolts with flat heads and the holes for them countersunk. This 
blade is not necessary, but adds much to the effectiveness of the 
drag. 

A platform of boards cleated together, leaving spaces of at least 
an inch between them, should be placed on the stakes. 

HOW TO USE A DRAG. 

Hitch the team so that the earth will move freely along the faces 
of the logs when the drag is in motion. 



12 FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 

1. SETTING POSTS. 

Posts should be set 2 J feet in the ground and tamped solidly into 
place. For barbed wire fences they should be 16^ feet apart. For 
inclosing large fields or pastures they are frequently set at twice 
that distance. For board or rail fences the distances betweeen posts 
is controlled by the length of material used, but should never exceed 
8 feet. Always set posts in a straight line and when practicable 
conforming to the cardinal points of the compass. Corner posts 
should be larger and longer than other posts and should be set 3J 
or 4 feet in the ground and braced from two sides. Posts in low 
places should be set at least 3 feet in the ground. 

2. BUILDING FENCE. 

Cedar posts should always be used when obtainable. Posts of 
other material should be treated with creosote or coal tar or should 
be charred before being set. In building barbed wire fences the wire 
should be stretched very tight, using a wagon for the stretching. A 
wire stretcher does very well for small fields, but is not so satisfactory 
for large ones. If the fence is of boards, they should be nailed to 
the posts with three nails in each post. Care should be taken to 
have boards or wires equal distances apart. 

3. PLANTING TREES. 

The land where the trees are to be planted should first be carefully 
plowed and leveled as for any other crop. The hole for the tree 
should be dug wide and deep. The harder the soil the larger the 
hole should be, because in such case the tree must start in the loose 
dirt that is cut up in the bottom or thrown into the hole. In a loose, 
deep soil the hole need not be larger than the spread of the roots. 

Trees should be set an inch or two deeper than they stood before 
transplanting. The roots that are broken should be trimmed off 
at the ends and should be spread out in planting to their normal 
position. If there are extra long roots, they should be cut back to 
correspond to the rest. The soil must be put in firmly about the 
roots, especially under the fork, so that there may be no air spaces 
left. This can best be done with the fingers, moving the tree up 
and down a little at the same time. The earth should be stamped 
down once or twice as the hole is being filled. The hole should be a 
little more than full of earth, so that the surface water can be carried 
off, being specially careful not to leave holes near the tree where 
the water will settle. Stamp the earth thoroughly before leaving 
it, to hold the moisture and enable the tree to stand up against the 
winds. 

A good plan to conserve moisture in planting a tree is to put a 
mulch of straw or manure around it. 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 13 

The top of the tree should be shortened at the time of planting a 
little more than the root has been cut off, but should not be trimmed 
back too closely. 

Plant all orchard trees in straight rows, but ornamental shade 
trees should be set out with the general plan of the grounds they are 
to ornament in mind, and usually should not be in such rows. 

4, 5, 6. OILING AND MENDING HARNESS. 

Before a harness is oiled it should be thoroughly cleaned of all for- 
eign substance by scraping off accumulated dirt with a dull knife 
and then by washing with castile soap or regular harness soap. It 
should then be hung up to dry, but not in the sunlight. When it is 
thoroughly dry, it should be inspected to find where it needs mend- 
ing. Every break and every place that shows any sign of giving 
way should be repaired. When the repairing is in the line of sewing, 
this should be done with a waxed thread, but when this is impossible, 
mending may be done by using copper rivets, which are readily 
obtainable at every general or hardware store. In using these rivets, 
care should be taken to punch in the leather as large a hole as may 
be necessary to receive the rivet, and no larger. 

After the mending has been done, the harness should be gone 
over thoroughly with good harness oil, care being taken not to apply 
more than the leather will readily absorb. The harness should then 
be hung to dry in the shade, and, after the oil has disappeared, 
should be gone over with a cloth. In hot climates a harness soap 
is better than an oil. 

7. CARING FOR FARM AND OTHER TOOLS. 

Tools should be thoroughly cleaned after using and should be 
kept oiled. This is especially true when a tool like a plow is put 
away and left for some time without use. Unless it is thoroughly 
oiled it will be sure to rust. All steel tools are better for a coat of 
oil, but this is essential to every bright tool with a cutting edge. 

All edge tools should be kept sharp. Stopping work to sharpen a 
dull tool is nearly always economy. Almost the first thing a boy 
should learn in the handling of edge tools is how to keep them sharp 
and in good condition for work. 

8. PRUNING. 

Pruning is removing certain parts of plants or trees to make them 
better and more productive, or to keep them in manageable shape 
and to make them easier to care for. 

A fruit tree should be pruned moderately every year, while an 
ornamental tree should be pruned as often as is necessary to remove 
dead or superfluous branches and to keep it within the limit designed 
for it. 



14 FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 

9. PROTECTING TREES. 

Trees may be protected from vermin by putting around the lower 
part of the trunk of the tree a wire screen or by wrapping with tar 
paper. If such protection is used the trees must be watched care- 
fully to see that these protections do not harbor other enemies of 
the trees. 

Insect enemies are destroyed by killing them directly by some 
poisonous application or by poisoning their food. For the fungus 
enemies of trees some application must be made that will destroy 
the fungus. 

Applications for both insects and fungus are usually made in water 
and sprayed onto the trees. This spraying must be done with 
materials which will kill the enemy without injuring the plant or the 
fruit, and the work must be thoroughly done before either pest has 
obtained a foothold. It is best to spray fruit trees every season 
whether a pest has appeared or not. 

10. PUTTING HANDLES IN TOOLS. 

In all tools having eyes, such as hammers, hatchets, axes, grub 
hoes, or picks, the handle should be fitted neatly to the eye, it being 
larger at the lower or outer end. The handle is usually larger than 
the eye of the tool for which it is intended and should be shaped 
down until it fits as close as possible. The handle should be driven 
in and split lengthwise of the eye and a wedge driven in tight and 
cut off close to the handle; then other wedges should be driven in 
crosswise, after which the handle should be dressed off flush with 
the tool. 

In putting handles into shovels, hayforks, and all tools having 
sockets, all the old wood should be removed, rivets taken out and 
the handle fitted to the socket as neatly as possible. Then drive it 
in tight and replace the rivets. Care must be taken not to drive the 
handle too tight as there is danger of splitting the ferrule. 

In all tools having a piece of steel inserted in the wood to hold the 
handle in place, a hole should be bored in the end of the handle about 
■^ inch smaller than the part that is to be inserted. A ferrule is then 
put onto the end of the handle and the handle is driven tightly onto 

the tool. 

11. NAILING ON HORSESHOES. 

It is not expected that every boy shall become an expert horse- 
shoer, for horseshoeing is a trade that ought to have several years 
of apprenticeship. It is necessary, however, that every boy who 
lives on a farm should know how to nail on a shoe that has acci- 
dentally been pulled off. This usually comes from the horse's 
overreaching, and, if the hoof be not broken, the shoe can be nailed 
on without much difficulty. 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 15 

Be sure that the shoe is placed straight on the foot; then start the 
driving with one of the front nails. As small a nail should be used 
as will hold the shoe. Drive the nail so that it will follow the wall 
of the hoof, coming out through the wall with sufficient length to 
twist off and clinch. In clinching the nails, do not strike hard 
blows, but rather a number of easy ones, so that the horse's foot 
may not be hurt. Do not use a rasp. Always be sure that the 
nail comes out through the wall of the hoof. 

12. SHARPENING PLOWS. 

Heat the plowshare to a cherry red; then hammer it out on the 
underside to a sharp edge and in an even line. It should then be 
trued up with the hammer and filed on the top side to a sharp bevel 
edge. After it is sharpened it should be heated to a dull red and 
then held in water until cool. 

13. MIXING MORTAR. 

In making common lime mortar the first care is the selection 
of the lime, which should be free from cinders, clinkers, and other 
impurities, and should be chiefly in hard lumps. It should slake 
freely in water, forming a fine smooth paste and should dissolve 
entirely in soft water when this is added in sufficient quantity. 

When prepared for use lime should be slaked in a box and screened 
into a pit made for the purpose. The slaking should be done some 
days before the lime is to be used in order that it may be complete. 
After being screened into the pit it may be covered with sand to 
keep out the air, and the preparation will keep almost indefinitely. 
It can be taken from this pit at any time and mixed with the required 
amount of sand, according to the purpose for which the mortar is 
to be used. From 2\ to 3 parts of sand to 1 part of lime paste is 
the most common proportion. 

14. LAYING CEMENT WALKS. 

The use of Portland cement in concrete construction has become 
so common that its use for ordinary purposes should be known to 
everyone, and knowledge of handling it is a resource that every 
Indian boy should possess before he leaves school. The funda- 
mental principles of the use of cement in making mortar or concrete 
are very simple and easily learned. Skill in its use comes only 
from practice and experience. 

Cement mortar for brick or stone work is made in the following 
proportion: One barrel (380 pounds net) Portland cement, 4 barrels 
sand, and 2 pails of lime putty. 

Concrete is best made from a mixture of broken stone, clean 
coarse sand, and Portland cement, in such proportion that the 



16 FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 

cement will just a little more than fill the voids between the grains 
of sand. 

The coarse material that is used in making concrete is frequently 
called the aggregate, and any hard broken stone is suited to this 
purpose. Gravel is frequently used, but is not as satisfactory as 
the broken stone because of its roundness and smoothness. 

In making all concrete mixtures all parts should be carefully 
measured. Careful measurement is absolutely necessary to success. 
A wheelbarrow makes a very convenient measure. 

The concrete should be mixed as near the place where it will be 
used as is practicable, so that no time will be lost in getting it into 
place. For small jobs only a small quantity should be mixed at 
one time, as concrete can not be used after it begins to harden. 

Mixing is best done as follows: Measure the sand and spread it 
to an even depth on a water-tight platform; measure the cement 
and spread it on the top of the sand and then mix thoroughly until 
the mixture shows a uniform color; then the measure of stone, 
thoroughly wet, should be placed on top and mixed with the sand 
and cement in similar manner; then sufficient water should be 
added to make a mixture just too soft to bear a man's weight when 
it is put in place. Add the water very carefully so that the mixture 
shall not be too thin. 

Mixtures are medium, ordinary, and lean, according to the amount 
of cement contained in each, which is governed by the purpose for 
which the mixture is to be used. 

A rich mixture for tanks and other water-tight work consists of 
1 part cement, 2 parts sand, and 4 parts broken stone. A medium 
mixture for foundations, floors, sidewalks, or sewers contain 1 part 
cement, 2\ parts sand, and 5 parts broken stone. For heavy walls, 
piers, or abutments, an ordinary mixture of 1 part cement, 3 parts 
sand, and 6 parts broken stone is used. For large foundations or 
other work where the concrete is subjected to continuous plan 
strain, a lean mixture consisting of 1 part cement, 4 parts sand, and 8 
parts broken stone is satisfactory. 

Excavate to the grade decided upon and about 3 inches wider 
than the proposed walk and fill with foundation material of broken 
stone or cinders to within 4 inches of the proposed finished surface, 
wetting the foundation well and tamping it in so that it will be 
even and firm but porous. If the soil is good and firm, the founda- 
tion may be dispensed with, merely spreading a layer of about 
1 inch of sand over the bottom of the excavation, which would 
then not be more limn 5 inches. 

After the foundation has been laid, place 2 by 4's, toenailing 
the 2 by 4's to the stakes. Care should be taken that the scantling 
be set in straight lines and that these lines be kept the same distance 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 17 

apart. Fill the frame with concrete, the mixture being 1 part 
cement, 2 parts clean, coarse sand, and 4 to 6 parts broken stone, 
which should be tamped in until the water begins to show on top. 

The finishing coat should be 1 inch thick and of 1 part cement to 
H or2 parts good, clean, coarse sand. This should be spread before 
the concrete base has set and should be smoothed off with a straight- 
edge, flush with the surface of the scantling frames. Smooth with a 
wooden plate and cut into square blocks with groover. In warm 
climates where the concrete is likely to expand, a seven-eighths-inch 
board should be set in across the walk about every 50 or 60 feet to the 
depth of the frame. Fill into this, and before the concrete has firmly 
set, but when it will stand, the board should be removed and the space 
filled with dry sand. 

Cover the completed walk with sand or other convenient material 

to keep it from drying too rapidly and to protect it from dust and the 

sun. 

15. LAYING STONE WALL. 

Xo wall should be less than 18 inches thick. The largest stones 
should be in the foundation course, and as many stones as possible 
that go through the wall should be used. Fragments of stones may 
be used for filling in. 

Xo joint between two stones should come over a joint between 
other two stones, but the stone should overlap from 1 to 1| times the 
depth of the course. 

Stones should be laid in the wall as they lay in the quarry. 

All dry and coarse stones should be moistened before they are laid in 
order that the stone may not absorb, the moisture in the mortar, and 
thus dry it too fast. Every part of the joint of all the spaces between 
the stones should be filled with mortar, but these spaces should be 
made as small as possible. After the mixture is laid the joints in the 
face should be cleaned out and refilled with cement mortar. The 
joints should be thoroughly cleaned to the depth of at least half an 
inch, but an inch is much better. A mixture of 1 part cement, 1 of 
sand is, perhaps, most commonly used. 

16. HANGING DOORS. 

The door is held up against the jambs and marked around with a 
pencil. It should then be cut to these lines, being made about one- 
eighth inch narrower and three-eighths inch shorter than the open- 
ing. The upper hinge should be about 6 inches from the top and the 
lower one about 10 inches from the floor. The thickness of the 
plinth or the casing should be subtracted from the total width of the 
hinge, and the balance divided by two will give the distance the hinge 
is to be set back from the face side of the door. In all cases the hinge 

64633°— 11 3 



18 FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 

should be wide enough to reach across two-thirds of the thickness of 

the door. The jamb should be at lea^t \\ inches thick or else be 

backed up solidly, so as to give the hinge screws a good hold; l^-inch 

screws should be used for common size doors. Heavy doors should 

have three hinges. The mortise for the hinge of the door should 

bevel slightly toward the front, so that the hinge will not strike the 

jamb. 

17. SETTING LOCKS. 

Rim locks are those that are simply screwed onto the face of the 
door, while mortise locks are those that are set into the door itself. In 
setting the former, the lock is held in position and marked for the 
keyhole, knob-bar hole, and screw holes. The first two are cut and 
the last are bored, and the lock screwed into place. The escutcheon 
and knob plates are put on, and the keeper is then put onto the jamb. 
For a mortise lock, the lock is set in the door with a mortise just large 
enough to admit it, the face plate of the lock being set flush with the 
face of the edge of the door. The places for the holes for the knob 
bar and keyhole should then be marked and cut, the lock set and fas- 
tened in, the knob-plates and escutcheon set, and the knobs adjusted. 
The keeper is then mortised into its proper place flush with the face of 
the edge of the jamb. 

18. PAINTING AND GLAZING. 

Composition of paints: Paint is composed of two ingredients, the 
pigment, which gives body and color, and the fluid in which this color 
is dissolved or suspended. If the painting is for protective purposes, 
the fluid is oil; if for decoration .only, it may be water. 

The best white pigment is pure white lead, while the most common 
black pigment is lamp black. Pigments that will give the different 
colors and shades of color may be used as desired. 

The oil most commonly used by painters is linseed oil, the drying 
qualities of which are improved by boiling, when it is commonly 
known as boiled oil. Its quality can be determined by looking 
through a small bottle rilled with it. Good, fresh oil should be clear in 
appearance and have very little odor; poor oil is not clear and has a 
strong and rancid odor. If paint is too thick, good oil should be used 
to thin it. Driers are frequently used in order to cause the paint to dry 
more readily ; in fact, some colors will not dry at all without their use. 

A varnish is a solution of a gum or resin in turpentine, linseed oil, 
or some like fluid, and is used to produce a hard and shining surface. 
A cheap varnish suitable for ordinary work can be made as follows: 
Add 2\ pints of turpentine to 3 pounds of dried resin, shake well and 
allow to stand for a day or two, shaking occasionally. Add 5 quarts 
of boiled oil; shako thoroughly and allow to stand in a warm room 
until clear; then pour oil' the clear portion and it is ready for use. 



FAEM AND HOME MECHANICS. 19 

Before beginning to paint, the surface to be painted should be 
thoroughly cleaned, and all spots and dust removed. The knots 
should be covered with shellac, which can be easily obtained, and all 
nail holes, bad joints, and cracks should be filled with putty. 

New woodwork should receive at least three coats of paint. The 
first coat is called the priming and should be thin and readily ab- 
sorbed into the wood. The stopping up of the nail holes, etc., 
should be done after the priming is applied. 

The intermediate coats should then be applied as evenly as pos- 
sible, the second coat being laid at right angles to the grain of the 
wood, while the third coat should follow the grain, care being taken 
to leave no brush marks. The final coat should give the desired 
tint. 

In repainting old work, it should be carefully cleaned with a knife 
and then gone over with powdered pumice stone and water, rub- 
bing the greasy parts with lime. 

Whitewash is used for common walls and ceilings where, for sani- 
tary reasons, a frequent application is better than a coat which would 
last longer. It is made from pure white lime, mixed with water 
and is improved by adding a pound of pure tallow to every bushel 
of lime. Lime for whitewash should be slaked with boiling water 
and, when slaking is complete, the lime can be dissolved in water 
and applied with a common whitewash brush. Whitewash is im- 
proved by adding 2 pounds of zinc sulphate and 1 pound of common 
salt to every half bushel of lime used. 

Whitewash can be tinted to any color desired by the use of tints, 
which are readily procured. 

In setting a pane of glass to replace a broken one, care should be 
taken to remove all pieces of the old putty, which can be done with 
a knife or with a hot iron. When the glass has been fitted, a thin 
layer of putty should be put on the frame and the pane of glass 
pressed into place against this. This prevents the glass from touching 
the wood and renders it less likely to be broken. The putty should 
then be applied smoothly with a putty knife. Glazier's points 
should be used to hold the glass in place until the putty is applied. 

Putty can be made from whiting and linseed oil, but can be more 
readily bought already prepared. 

19, 20. BUILDING ROADS. 

The first and most essential feature in road building is to secure 
good drainage, since water is the agent which does most damage. 
The road should be shaped like a roof, with the highest part in the 
middle and slopping evenly in both directions. On a hill side this 
may not be possible and the road will have to have only one slope, 
but generally speaking, a roof-shaped road is entirely practicable. 



20 FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 

There are many kinds of road machines in use, all of which are 
more or less expensive, but the simplest apparatus for building and 
keeping a dirt road is good condition is the split-log dray (figure 33). 
This simple implement can be used very easily and effectively and 
can be made and owned by any farmer. 

Wherever a draw or ditch crosses a road, a culvert of some sort must 
be put in. This may be made of stone, if such material is available, 
but is most commonly a plain box, made of planks. The size of this 
culvert is regulated entirely by the volume of water that is likely to 
pass through it during a rain storm. It should be set into the road so 
that its bottom will be on a level with the bottom of the ditch or drain 
that crosses the road, and the road above it should be kept fully up 
to grade. 

21. GLUING. 

Surfaces to be glued should be forced as closely as possible together 
and as little glue as possible should be used. The less the better. 
Glue should be applied hot and it is also well to warm the joint when 
practicable. 

Good glue may be known by the way it breaks under the hammer. 
The more ragged the fracture the better the glue. The best method 
of making glue is to fill the inner vessel with small pieces of glue, 
cover them with water, and allow them to soak for a few hours. Glue 
should be applied hot and so thin that it will run off the brush almost 
like linseed oil. 

22. SOLDERING. 

Soldering is uniting two pieces of metal by means of another metal. 
The parts to be joined should be thoroughly cleaned by scraping or 
filing, and a flux must be used with the solder to join the two metals. 
This flux may be borax or resin, but muriatic acid is commonly used 
and is easy to handle. Resin is the best flux for tin; muriatic acid for 
zinc and galvanized iron; borax for iron and steel. The acid is kept 
in a small bottle with a piece of iron wire through the cork, dipping 
into the fluid, so that a drop may be applied to the surface of the 
metal to be soldered when desired. 

The soldering iron must be kept tinned or it will not spread the 
solder. A few small scraps of tin are mixed with some resin in a hol- 
low place in a brick or some similar place, and the hot iron is rubbed 
into this mixture until the tin has melted and adhered to the iron 
through the agency of the resin. A good-sized iron should always be 
used. 

When the surfaces to be brought together are prepared, the solder- 
ing iron should be heated to a dull red and should then be rubbed 
clean on a piece of rag and applied to the solder in such a way that 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 21 

the melted solder will cover the place to be mended. The solder 
should be then rubbed smooth from the joint with the iron, care being 
taken that it be not too hot. 

23. HARNESSING, HITCHING, AND UNHITCHING 

HORSES. 

Always handle your horses gently. Always speak to them before 
3 r ou go into the stall. Do not throw the harness on them as the}' do 
not enjoy being hurt. Always be sure that all buckles are fastened 
and that the ends of the straps are put into the keepers. In hitching 
a horse or a team to a vehicle, the traces should be the last things 
fastened, the lines being taken down first, so that the animals are 
always under control. 

In unhitching, exactly the reverse process is followed, the lines being 
the last part of the harness to be put up. 

In unharnessing a team, the buckles should always be loosened on 
the left-hand side. 



22 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



L 



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Fiu. l.— Bread Board. 



FARM AND SOME MECHANICS. 



23 






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r"x +' pasfr 



<r/oor. & n»/t 



Fig. 2.— Stall, Feed Box, and Manger, 
bill of material. 




10 pieces yellow pine 1" x 10" x 10' 0". 
1 piece yellow pine 1" x 0" x 12' 0*. 
1 piece yellow pine 2" x 12" x 10' 0". 
3J pieces yellow pine 1" x 9" x 12' 0". 
1 piece yellow pine 2" x 8" x o' 0". 



24 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



T 



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Fia. 3.— Hen's Nest. 



FABM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



25 






To he- wiitk aJ-Caia, 




Fig. 4.— Henroost. 



64633°— 11 4 



26 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 





Fig. 5— Gate, 
bill of material. 

5 pieces yellow pine l" x 6" x lO'O" 

6 pieces yellow pino 1" x 0" x 4' 6". 
2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 0" x 7'0". 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



27 




Fre/ri Sie^aiion 



■Section 




Fig. 6.— Chicken* Coop. 

bill of material. 

4 pieces yellow pine 1" x 10" x 3' 6" Top. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 10" x 4' o" Bottom. 

1 piece vellow pine 1" x 10" x 15" Door. 

1 piece yellow pine 1" x 10" x 12' 0" Front and back. 



28 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



if 



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i_° II JL 



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oo 



1 



1. 
3T 






jL 




Fig. 7.— Milk Stool. 



BILL OF MATEBIAL. 

1 piece yellow pine li" x 8" x 10" . 
1 piece yellow pine 2'' x 4" x 10"- . 



Top. 
Leg. 



/S 






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Fig 8.— Evener. 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



29 





















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Fig. 9.— Feed Trough. 

bili of material. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1 \" x 10" x 4' 6" Sides. 

2 pieces yellow pine V," x 8" x 2' 0" Ends. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 2" x 12" Crosspieces. 



30 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



4>-o 



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Fig. 10.— Water Trough. 

bill of material. 

3 pieces yollow pine \\" x 13" x 5'0" Sides and bottom. 

2 i 'ices "yellow pine \h" x 12" x 1 10" Ends. 

2 pieces yollow pine 2" x 4" x 4' 6" Crosspieoes. 

pieces yellow pine 2" x 4" x 1/6" Legs and braces. 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



31 



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r » 





Fig. 11.— Wall Shelf, 
bill of material. 

1 piece yellow pine 1" x 11" x 4' 2". 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 9" x 11". 



32 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



"^S 



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Fig. 12.— Hanging Shelf, 
bill of material. 

1 piece yellow pine 1" x 12" x 4' 4". 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 12" x 3' 0" 
2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 3" x 12". 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



S3 





Fig. 13.— Footstool, 
bill of material. 

1 piece yellow pine 1" x 10" x 121" Top. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 10" x 9" Ends. 

1 piece yellow pine 1" x 2" x 14" Crosspiece. 



34 



FAKM AND HOME MECHANICS. 





Fig. 14.— Flour Box. 
bill of material. 




■ 1 ■ ■ II 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



35 





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II 

II 

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Fig. 15.— Bench. 

bill of material. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 12" x f>' 2". 
4 pieces yellow pine 1" x 10" x 1' <j". 
2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 4i" x 6' 0". 



36 



FAKM AND HOME MECHANICS. 





Fig. 10.— Knife Box. 
bill of material. 

1 piece yellow pine \" x 8" x 13" Bottom. 

2 pieces yellow pine \" x 3" x 13" Sides. 

2 pieces yellow pine \" x 3" x 10" Ends. 

1 piece yellow pine \" x GJ" x 12" Partition. 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



37 




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3-o 



I 




Fig. 17.— Table. 

bill of material. 

4 pieces yellow pine 1" x 10" x 6' 0" Top. 

4 pieces yellow pine 4" x 4" x 2' 6" Legs. 

3 pieces yellow pine 1" x 6^" x 6' 0" Side and end pieces. 



38 



FAKM AND HOME MECHANICS. 




Detail 0, 




petd.il A. 

Fig. 18.— Cupboard 

bill of material. 

4 pieces yellow pine 1" x 10" x 5' 6" Doors. 

4 pieces yellow pine 1" x 31" x 1G" Cleats on doors. 

4 pieces yellow pine 1" x 8" x 6' 0" Sides. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 10" x 4' 0" Top. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 8" x 3' 6" Bottom. 

1 piece yellow pine 1" x 64" x 10' 6" Base. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 3" x 6' 10" Front stiles. 

2 pieces yellow pine \" x 2" x 8' 6" Front rails. 

5 pieces yellow pine 1" x 10" x 6' 0" Back and shelf supports. 

8 pieces yellow pine 1" x 8* x 3' 0" Shelves. 

2 pair hinges. 
1 cupboard catch. 



FARM AXD HOME MECHANICS. 



39 



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3"-4H 





Fig. 19.— Towel Roller, 
bill of material. 

1 piece yellow pine 1" x 6" x 2' 0" Back 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 4" x 3t" Bracket. 

1 piece yellow pine 2" x 2" x 2'0" Roller. 



40 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



e5»t fc-»k^ 



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-jra. _ .ri-i j ir> r. j j -v . . c- 



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/ 1 




Fig. 20.— Bedstead, 
bill of material. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 9" x 3' 8" Head. 

1 piece yellow pine 1" x 12" x3'8". Foot. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 9" x 6' 8" Sides and cleats. 

2 pieces yellow pine 2" x 4" x 2' 8" Head posts. 

2 pieces yellow pine 2" x 4" x 2' 1" Foot posts. 

2 pieces yellow pine 2" x 6" x 3'G" Bottom. 

(i pieces yellow pine 1" x 6" x 3' 6" Bed slats. 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



41 



ft 



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1 




f/ i*/ 

Fig. 21.— Window Screen. 

bill of material. 

2 pieces yellow pine l\" x 3" x 5' 4" Stiles. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1£" x 3" x 2' 7" Rails. 

1 piece yellow pine 1J" x 3" x 2' 7" Lower rail. 

30 feet screen binding \" x f". 



42 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS, 





0et4'l of 



Binding 



Fig. 22.— Door Screen. 

bill of material. 

2 pieces yellow pine \\" x 4" x 7' 2" Stiles. 

2 pieces yellow pine I',"x4"x2'8" Rails. 

1 piece yellow pine 1 .', " x oY' x 2' 1" Lower rail. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1\" x 4" x 3' 2" Braces. 

24 feet screen binding \" x g". 



1 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



43 






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Fig. 23.— Bookcase. 

bill of material. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 12" x 5' 2" Sides. 

G pieces yellow pine 1" x 12" x 3' 6" Shelves. 



44 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 




Fig. 24.— Tool Chest. 

bill of material. 

4 pieces yellow pine 1" x 8" x 4' 8" Sides. 

4 pieces yellow pine 1" x 8" x 1' 6" Ends. 

4 pieces yellow pine 1" x 10" x 4' 8" Top and bottom. 

G pieces yellow pine 1" x 3 \" x 4' 10" Base and top strips. 

6 pieces yellow pine 1" x S\" x 1' 10" Base and top strips. 

1 piece poplar f x9"x7'0" Tray. 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



45 





Fig. 25.— Clothes Box. 
bill of material. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 12" x 4' 2" Sides. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 12" x 2' 0" Ends. 

6 pieces yellow pine 1" x 9" x 4' 2" Top and bottom. 

3 pieces yellow pine 1" x 3£" x 4' 4" Base. 

2 pieces yellow pine 1" x 2" x 4' 4" Edge of top. 



46 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 




Perspective view. 







Plan and elevation. 
Fig. 26.— Split-Log Drag. 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 



47 







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Fig. 27.— Hayrack. 



2 pieces yellow pine 2" x 10" x 16' 0' 
4 pieces yellow pine 2" x 6" x 8' 0". 
4 pieces yellow pine 2" x 4" x 4' 2". 
2 pieces yellow pine 2" x 4" x 15' 8" 



BILL OF MATERIAL. 



HARDWARE. 




6 bolts |» x 6". 
16 bolts l" x 4". 
8 clips, bolt i" x 19". 



48 



FARM AND HOME MECHANICS. 






Fig. 28.— Details of a Cheap Workbench. 



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Farm aud Home Mechanics 




Oootr 
To ire made, of Hard Map ft: strip 8- 



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Details of Manual Training Workbench. 



BLANK 



Farm and Home Mechanics. 



Plate 




Ooorr 
To fie made of Hard Mapit. stripe 



6 Log Screw- 




Details of Manual Training Workbench. 



Farm 



r 



LJ H 




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Plate IV. 



BILL OF MATERIAL. 

4 pieces, 1" x 8" x 5' 8", "A" yellow pine finish Top. 

4 pieces, 4" x 4" x 2' 7", "A" yellow pine finish Table legs. 

4 pieces, 1£" x 3" x 1' 9", "A" yellow pine finish End rails. 

4 pieces, 1£" x 3" x 5' 0", "A" yellow pine finish Side rails. 

2 pieces, l|* x 2|" x 1' 3", "A" yellow pine finish — Front and back 

muntins. 

4 pieces, 1" x 3" x 1' 9", "A" yellow pine finish End nanels. 

4 pieces, I" x 8" x 2' 3", " A" yellow pine finish Back" panels. 

2 pieces, 1" x 8" x 2' 0", "A" yellow pine finish Partition. 

1 piece, 1£" x 6" x 5' 0", "A" yellow pine finish Brackets. 

14 pieces, 1£" x 3J" x 2' 3", "A" yellow pine finish Drawer slides. 

6 pieces, 1" x 3" x 2' 0", "A" yellow pine finish Bread board froms, 

slides, etc. 
4 pieces, 2" x 2" x 2' 6", "A" yellow pine finish Towel hangers. 

3 pieces, 1|* x 10" x 2' 3", "A" yellow pine finish — Drawer fronts. 
6 pieces, h" x 9" x 2' 0", poplar panel Drawer sides. 

3 pieces, \" x 9" x 2' 3", poplar panel Drawer ends. 

4 drawer bottoms, ¥ poplar panel, 18 square feel . 

4 pieces, 1" x 10" x 2' 2", poplar Bread hoards. 

Use offals for drawer partitions, etc. 

HARDWARE. 

1 piece sheet zinc, 36" x 72" For top. 

1 piece iron, No. 22, l\" x 16' long Around top. 

8 drawer pulls. 



RECAPITULATION AND COST OF MATERIAL. 

35 feet lumber, 1" x 8" x 12', "A" yellow pine, at $50 per M SI. 7;. 

35 feet lumber, li* x 10" x 12', "A" yellow pine, at $50 per M 1.75 

15 feet lumber, 4" x 4", 'A" yellow pine, at $50 per M 75 

4 feet lumber, 2" x 2" x 10', "A" yellow pine, at $50 per M 20 

8 feet lumber, 1" x 10" x 9', poplar, at $70 per M 56 

33 feet lumber, ¥ x 6" to 12", poplar panel, at $70 per M 2. 31 

1 piece sheet zinc, 36" x 72" 1. 50 

1 piece iron, No. 22, 1|" x 16' long 30 

8 drawer pulls, at 10 cents each 80 

Amount 9. 92 

Carpenter labor 10. 7o 

Cost of construction 20. 67 

PAINT MATERIAL. 

1 quart white shellac -75 

3 pints coach varnish 1- 20 

Tot al cost 22. 62 



Farm and Home Mechanics. 



Pa n eh 




Towel racks 




No 2Z Iron, 



Method of jastenmq z/a/c on top- 



Plate IV. 

BILL OF MATERIAL. 

4 pieces, 1" x 8" x 5' 8", "A" yellow pine finish Top. 

4 S& i » X C x 2 \ TLh " A " y ellow P ine finish TabIe 'egs- 

4 pieces, 1| x 3" x 1'9", "A" yellow pine finish .... End raill. 

9 £j»~ s ' Jl X o„ x 5 ' °"> " A " y ellow P' ne flnisQ Side rails. 

2 pieces, 1J" x 2.i" x 1' 3", "A" yellow pine finish. . . . Front and back 

4 pieces, 1" x 3" x 1' 9", "A" yellow pine finish EnTpanels 

4 pieces, 1 x 8" x 2' 3", " A" yellow pine finish Back'panels 

2 pieces, 1 ' x 8" x 2' 0", ' 'A" yellow pine finish Partition. 

piece, li" x 6" x 5' 0", "A" yellow pine finish Brackets. 

14 pieces, 1J' x 3J" x 2' 3", "A" yellow pine finish. . . . Drawer slides. 

b pieces, 1" x 3" x 2' 0", "A" yellow pine finish Bread board fronts, 

slides etc. 
4 pieces, 2" x 2" x 2' 6", "A" yellow pine finish Towel hangers. 

3 pieces, 11" x 10" x 2' 3", 'A" yellow pine finisli .... Drawer fronts. 
6 pieces, i" x 9" x 2' 0", poplar panel Drawer sides. 

3 pieces, l" x 9" x 2' 3", poplar panel Drawer onds. 

4 drawer bottoms, V poplar panel, IS square feet , 

4 pieces, 1" x 10" x 2' 2", poplar Bread boards. 

Use offals for drawer partitions, etc. 

HARDWARE. 

1 piece sheet zinc, 36" x 72" For top. 

1 piece iron, No. 22, 1J" x 10' long Around top. 

8 drawer pulls. 



^Topto be covered with- sheer zinc 



I "Poplar. 



~Z-5f- 




RECAPITULATION AND COST OF MATERIAL. 

Vj feet lumber, 1" x 8" x 12', "A" yellow pine, at $50 por M $1. 75 

•S5 feet lumber, 1J" x 10" x 12', "A" yellow pine, at, $50 por M 1.75 

, c feet lumber, 4" x 4", "A" yellow pine, at $50 per M. 76 

4 feet lumber, 2" x 2" x 10', 'A'' yellow pine, at $50 per M 20 

R feet lumber, 1" x 10" x 9', poplar, at $70 per M .58 

33 feet lumber; \" x 6" to 12", poplar panel, at $70 per M 2. 31 

1 piece sheet zinc, 30" x 72" i-^ 

1 piece iron, No. 22, 11" x 16' long JO 

8 drawer pulls, at 10 cents each -ou 

9 9"' 
Amount ' - • 10 ' ? : 

Carpenter labor ; 

Cost of construction 20- 67 

PAINT MATERIAL. 

1 nuart white shellac •■ ^ 

3 pints coach varnish 

22.62 

Total cost 



DOMESTIC 



Science Cook Table. 



Farm and Home Mechanics. 




3t.E£\/£ BOARD. 

Ironing Board to be Used with Domestic Science Cook Table. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





014 060 771 A 



